Use our building new home construction checklist to improve your home’s energy efficiency, and water conservation. Also download our free 98 page free book on home planning, and see our other articles for additional insights on home planning, and energy efficiency. Use the test below to grade your home building plan for energy efficiency.
When building a new home in 2011 the most important factor is energy efficiency. Energy efficiency keeps utility down, which lowers total monthly payments, and makes those loan payments easier to make. Energy efficiency also helps the environment. Here is our checklist to save your money and help save the world at the same time. Grade your home with our checklist energy efficient test!
The smaller your home the less energy it will waste, in heating and cooling.
A. 750 square foot or less
B. 1000 square foot or less
C. 1500 square foot or less
D. 2000 square foot or less
E. 5000 square foot or less
F. Over 5000 square foot
Fewer corners and eves, and fewer extensions and wings bring greater efficiency. The fewer corners and eves your house has the more economical it is to build and to heat and cool. Z shaped and long T and L shaped homes are not energy efficient at all.
A. Four to six corners and two or three eves and no walls more than 20 feet from the center of the home.
B. Eight corners and four eves, but no walls more than 20 feet from the center of the home.
C. Ten corners and five eves, but with no walls more than 20 feet from the center of the home.
D. Eight or ten Corners, four or five eves, and some walls extending more than 20 feet from the center of the home.
E. Eight or ten Corners and many walls extending more than 40 feet from the center of the home.
A. Over R- 30 with six or more inches of: closed cell – R- 36, vacuum insulated panel R-30 – 50, polyisocyanurate – R-33 – 48, extruded polyurethane foam board R-30 – 50
B. Over R-20: polystyrene insulation R-24, Used Shipping Containers R–19 – 21, or 6 inches of fiberglass batts for R-19 – 20 – 4 inches of closed cell R-24, four inches of polyurethane R-20
C. Between R-15 and 20 for example four inches of polystyrene insulation R-16
D. Between R -10 and 15 for example 4 inches of fiberglass batts R-13
E. Anything that does not provide at least R-10
F. No insulation
A. Radiant Barrier Attic Insulation plus 6 inches of closed cell blown insulation
B. 6 inch Insulated panels or closed cell with no radiant barrier
C. Less than six inches of closed cell, polystyrene or polyurethane
D. Six inches of fiberglass batts
E. Four inches of fiberglass batts
F. No attic insulation
A. Triple glazed windows, well installed
B. Dual paned windows, well installed
C. Legacy salvaged windows with storm windows.
D. Single pane glass windows
E. Improperly installed windows
A. All your appliances are top EEF rated Energy Star appliances, and your heat and air are state of the art energy efficient
B. All your appliances are Energy Star appliances, and some rank near the top. Heat and air are efficient.
C. Some of your appliances are Energy Star, but others are used and budget models.
D. Only a couple of your appliances are energy star rated, and you heating system is not rated.
E. All your appliances are legacy technology, from the seventies, and you bought the least expensive heating and air system you could.
A. Completely self sustaining solar or wind system or one that which feeds energy back to the grid most of the time.
B. A nearly independent system, which needs occasionally burns more than it produces
C. Enough solar power to offset the power bill by at least half
D. A few solar panels to defray the power bill by a bit
E. No solar panels or other energy production
Simply average your grade on our building new home construction checklist for energy efficiency, to learn how your home will rank on energy efficiency.